H&IS digital editor Mairi Mulhern visits The Spence at Gleneagles Townhouse to sample executive chef Elliot Hill’s new menu

The 18^th century Gleneagles Townhouse building has opulence built in. A former bank on the edge of St Andrew Square in Edinburgh, it dates from the 1700s and was further developed in the mid-1800s by architects Bryce & Burn. Ennismore, who also run the Gleneagles estate in Perthshire, acquired the building nearly a decade ago and transformed it into the 33-bedroom hotel we see today, complete with The Spence restaurant and Lamplighters rooftop bar. The place continues to balance metropolitan luxury and rural class with ease, giving tourists and cityslickers — who don’t often venture out of city limits — a taste of Gleneagles’ famous five-star sophistication.

The Townhouse interior is proud without being uppity. A set of perfectly polished granite columns tower at the perimeter of The Spence, illuminated by golden light that filters through an astounding glass domed ceiling. Oak panelled bars and vibrant art by the likes of France-Lise McGurn and Nell Lyhn harmonise with marble fireplaces, ornate architraves and sensitively restored cornicing. Velvet art-deco chairs, soft tasselled cushions and genuine hospitality add warmth.

I’m meeting my childhood friend at The Spence for dinner and a long overdue catch-up, which is an occasion worth celebrating in itself. But the most exciting reason we’re here? The Spence’s new executive chef Elliot Hill is serving his first a la cart menu in the role, which he says is rooted in modern Scottish cooking.

“The Scottish larder is absolutely world class, from game to seafood; berries to foraged mushrooms,” he says. “I work closely with the restaurant team and suppliers to create dishes that do justice to this phenomenal bounty.” The chef has just jumped ship from The Chester Grosvenor Hotel, where he elevated Restaurant Arkle to three AA Rosettes within six months, so we know we are in safe hands. Let’s eat.

Elliot’s menu is familiar yet spirited, built on classic Highland produce and laced with zingy, contemporary surprises.

Rich haggis fritters are elevated by a fragrant parsley sauce. A spoonful of tangy hedgerow preserve sharpens a salty deer stalker pie. A heritage beetroot starter, garnished with linseed and horseradish, is freshened by dots of Katy Rodger’s yoghurt (handmade on Knockraich Farm in Fintry). Even fatty beef dripping chips are offset by green leaves drizzled in an acidic sherry vinaigrette.

The Spence onion soup is the most elegant version of the classic French dish I’ve tasted. It comes with a crisp, buttery crouton topped with truffled Anster cheese. The soup itself is light but not watery and a small, whole onion sits in the middle of the bowl. Its soft layers part at the touch of my spoon; every mouthful infused with its sweetness. The best part? The crouton is served on the side, so there’s no need to hurriedly gobble it down before sogginess ensues.

For my main course, tender chicken breast (so soft, it must have been soaked in brine before service) commands attention on a bed of grilled leeks (lightly charred), flanked by winter truffle (creamy and light) and finished with gravy, which the waiter pours at the table with polite fanfare. I have a savoury tooth so swap dessert for an extra side of creamy braised savoy cabbage, naturally salted with diced pancetta. Yum.

An honourable, albeit very specific, mention goes to the pumpkin seed dukkah. Remember what I said about zingy surprises? This aromatic seed topping, paired with a blood orange dressing, provides the zingy punch I didn’t know my Scottish squash tartlet needed. It is dusted with cumin and coriander, every bite a nod to the rich tapestry of its Egyptian culinary heritage.

The waiter tells me that the heather honey baked Alaska is worth coming back for. It’s served with Scotch, oats and pistachio, finished tableside for a touch of theatre. I’m convinced, and carve out time in my diary for a revisit on the train home.

Taste Elliot’s menu at The Spence for yourself or drop in for a Spence Sunday Roast. Afternoon Tea is also available. Find the restaurant in Gleneagles Townhouse, right next to Harvey Nichols, in St Andrew Square.

The Spence at Gleneagles Townhouse

39 St Andrew Square

Edinburgh

EH2 2AD

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Want to know more about the rooms at Gleneagles Townhouse? H&IS deputy editor visited when it first opened, with high praise.

Inside Gleneagles Townhouse, Edinburgh