Is the whisky Isle calling your name? Our features writer, Miriam Methuen-Jones, took a short trip to the island and came back with plenty of recommendations

I‘ve made it my mission in life to explore each and every one of the Scottish isles. Most of my friends know that Skye holds a special place in my heart, there’s a picture out there of me beaming while sitting atop Cumbrae’s Crocodile Rock, and I’ll never shut up about learning to skim stones on the tiny isle of Luing. The to-visit list just keeps growing: Jura, Mull, Arran, Orkney – they’ve all got something special. Islay shot to the top of my travel wishlist when my whisky collection expanded. I realised this wee island (actually the fifth largest Scottish island) was home to some of the peatiest, smokiest whisky drams on the market. If anywhere could test my Speyside loyalties, it was Islay.

I grabbed my spouse, loaded up our wee car, and gratefully allowed CalMac to carry us towards the island.

Three Distillers Pathway

Islay is famous for its whisky, and this easy two-hour walk covers three of the island’s most well-known distilleries. Start at Port Ellen, the largest town on Islay, and work your way past distillery-in-progress Portintruan (which should start production in 2026).

Further along the path is Laphroaig, home to one of the world’s most distinctive single malts. If you like a peat-heavy whisky, a Laphroaig tasting is a must. Ask for Ace, if you can, as theirs is one of the most entertaining tastings I’ve ever encountered.

The distillery was established in 1815 and has a fascinating history peppered with intrigue. Key details from the in-house museum include Donald Johnston (co-founder of the distillery) dying after falling into a vat of partially-made whisky, a stream-blocking sabotage in 1907, and the brilliant Bessie Williamson who became the first woman to own and run a Scottish distillery in the 20th Century.

Just a kilometre away sits Lagavulin, the next distillery on the pathway. It sits near the ruins of Dunyvaig Castle on Islay’s south coast, which I’d recommend having a snoop around once you’ve explored the smoky depths of Lagavulin’s liquid offerings.

Last up is Ardbeg, and it’s a good distillery to finish at. The Old Kiln Café is nestled in the Visitor Centre, offering up light bites and home baking. There’s also the Ardstream Trailer in the courtyard if you fancy taking something away. Be sure to check the seasonal opening times if you’re visiting in winter.

Despite being founded in 1815, Ardbeg is known for its playful and modern approach to whisky. The brand regularly launches limited editions with wacky packaging, but also has a devout following of fans who swear by the old faithfuls.

Hop on a bus back to Port Ellen or retrace your steps, the choice is up to you. Trust your tolerance? You can hire bikes and easily cycle this trail as well.

Dinner at Ardbeg House

Never one to shy away from a theme, I chose the restaurant at Ardbeg House for our evening meal. This boutique hotel opened in Port Ellen last year (September 2025) and has been decadently dressed by the ever eclectic Russell Sage Studio.

Despite the grandeur, the staff are charming and the restaurant is packed with a mix of locals and whisky-mad tourists. Fresh seafood, battered cauliflower, succulent lamb, decadent goat’s cheese, sticky date pudding… It’s all divine.

Of course, we end the night with a dram (or three) in the bar. A fishing boat draped in lights hangs overhead; an Aussie announces he’s quitting his job and moving here; I tell one of the bar staff that I love his jewellery and he writes down the details of local silversmiths. It’s pretty magical, and that’s not just the Ardbeg Eureka! talking.

If I’d stuck to the mocktail menu as planned, I would’ve driven us up the road to Port Charlotte Hotel for a live trad music session. As it is, we call a taxi and tumble into bed.

Bowmore

With only one day left to enjoy Islay, my sights are set on the small town of Bowmore. We’re a bit early for our distillery tour, so we pop over the road to Celtic House Coffee Shop. Downstairs, there are plenty of gifts to peruse, and upstairs you can tuck into home baking and a selection of hot drinks.

Satiated, we return to the distillery. Bowmore is Scotland’s second oldest distillery, established in 1779, and is the producer of some of the world’s most prized bottles. We’re led on a brilliant tour by Margaret and even get to try our hand at raking the grain with the ‘grubber’. Spoiler alert: it’s really hard work. These distillery workers are buff.

The tour ends with a peek into one of the world’s oldest maturation warehouses and then a tasting overlooking Loch Indaal.

We have just enough time before our ferry to stumble into the warm embrace of nearby Peatzeria, a brilliantly-named restaurant serving homemade pizzas and pasta.

Final thoughts

As I settle by a window and watch Islay slowly recede from view, I know for sure that I’ll be back. There are beaches I want to scour, birds I want to learn the names of, and even more distilleries to explore. For an island that’s barely 20 miles long, Islay packs a serious punch. All hail the Queen of the Hebrides.

Want to learn more about Ardbeg House? Exuberance reigns in the new hotel on Islay designed by Russell Sage.

Exuberance reigns in this new hotel on Islay designed by Russell Sage