If there’s such a thing as reverse catfishing, Corner Shop is a pro, offering humble descriptions that belie a masterful command of flavour

It’s slightly surreal, sitting down for lunch in the place I used to buy magazines. I remember when Corner Shop was exactly that – a no-frills newsagent on Glasgow’s Old Dumbarton Road, right across the street from the flat I once called home. During the pandemic, the newsagent closed and re-emerged as a Grain & Grind coffee shop, satisfying an expensive espresso addiction. But this is easily my favourite incarnation yet.

If you live in Glasgow and like eating in nice places, you have likely been looked after by Conor McGeady, Corner Shop’s co-founder. He has spent the past 17 years front-of-house at some of the city’s most acclaimed restaurants, including Michelin Guide stalwarts The Gannet, Brett and Fallachan Kitchen. When Grain & Grind’s Matthew Mustard rang to ask if he’d partner with him on a food-oriented venture in his Yorkhill unit (turns out my coffee habit wasn’t enough to sustain it), Conor took the chance to make his debut as a restaurateur. The concept? A wine-focused, Mediterranean-inspired joint with the open embrace of a neighbourhood tavern and the culinary chops of somewhere more elevated, not dissimilar to London’s Barrafina. “We didn’t set out to be a Spanish restaurant; that’s just the sort of food we like to eat,” says Conor, citing the unselfconscious cuisine of Catalonia and the Basque Country as influences.

It feels right, then, to visit on a summer afternoon; a homage to the countries that pay the midday meal due reverence. Light pours through the windows, showing off the duo’s impressive renovation. Diners can sit on angular blond-timber banquettes with padded green leather seats, stainless-steel stools or midcentury chairs. Vermilion tables dazzle between white-painted brick walls and a pale, square-tiled floor.

When I sip the Colet Navazos Brut Nature, a bright and bubbly cross between cava and sherry, I’m transported to a San Sebastian pintxos bar, eagerly awaiting my sun-soaked dishes.

The menu, designed for sharing, is concise and straightforward. Deceptively so. If there’s such a thing as reverse-catfishing, Corner Shop is a pro, offering humble descriptions that belie a masterful command of flavour. “Pan con tomate”? Try golden-oiled, toasted bread spread with confit garlic, Marmite and a lively layer of slightly fermented green tomatoes: sharp, savoury and unapologetic. “Grilled leeks w/ Romesco” doesn’t convey the silky-sweetness of the leeks that arrive supine in a pool of pepper puree and showered with smoked almonds. “Albondiga” is a flame-licked meatball, so tender its juices drip off the skewer. I realise I’m approaching M&S voiceover territory, but I can’t help it. Even teetotallers would leave this wine bar tipsy with joy.

Conor’s wealth of experience means he knows where to source quality produce, and his menu adapts to what’s fresh and in season. “We just replaced the Dover sole dish because our fishmonger brought in a 12-kilo, line-caught Shetland halibut,” he explains.

I’ve never had halibut like it, dotted with clams and bathed in a herby, buttery chicken sauce that tastes like roast dinners and happiness, which I proceed to mop up with my Ratte potatoes. And the food isn’t the only source of comfort.

When I first sat down and saw my old flat, I remembered how reluctant I was to leave this neighbourhood. Thanks to Corner Shop, I have a good excuse to come back. To turn goodbye into see you soon.

Corner Shop

45 Old Dumbarton Road

Glasgow

G3 8RF

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