An inspirational Georgian manor house in north-east Scotland offers sanctuary to artists, poets and the curious of spirit
Sanctuary. What does that word conjure up for you? A 200-year-old willow tree to sit under and read a book? An outdoor sauna in a wooded glade? A plush sofa to sink into and nap for a few hours? A dimly lit room to lounge around in, listening to records on your own? All of these things, and more, are in abundance at Boath House.
The beautifully restored Georgian manor house, between Nairn and Findhorn near the Moray Firth, has recently become a retreat for artists and creative types. They come here from all corners of the UK and beyond, seeking mental breathing space.
It can sometimes take a few days into a holiday until you start to loosen up, but a palpable sense of calm is felt as soon as you arrive here.
You’re greeted by the woody scent of palo santo, and light floods in through the tall windows, bathing the sitting rooms with summer light. There are two rooms on the ground floor for guests to lounge in at their leisure. The walls are usually adorned with works by the current artist in residence.
My visit coincided with the Edinburgh art collective Bard showcasing ceramics by Cara Guthrie. Artworks by big names such as Julian Schnabel and Joanna Piotrowska can also be found around the house. It feels elevated, sure, but in a way that invites you to kick off your shoes, lie back and take it all in.
Expectations are subverted in other ways too at Boath. There’s no traditional reception desk, for instance; instead, you’re greeted by a member of staff as you arrive, shown to your room, and then left to explore. This is a place to do your own thing and make yourself at home.
In my room and grateful for a chance to unwind after a long drive north from Fife, my heart swelled at the airy, spacious and pared-back design.
All ten bedrooms in the main house allow the craftsmanship of the carefully selected antique furniture to do the talking, and though verging on minimalist, the decor feels homely thanks to woollen blankets, crisp cotton sheets, sounddampening sisal carpet and roomy armchairs in which to relax. Mine had a great view of the gardens, where the majority of the kitchen’s produce is grown.
I leafed through the handwritten booklet in the room (artfully decorated with signature Boath scribbles, of course), which put me on a first-name basis with every member of staff on site, from housekeeping (Heather and Margaret-Ann) to the head gardener (Stephen) to the chefs (Philip and Katie). It felt like I’d seamlessly transitioned from traveller to member of the Boath family. And, of course, the artsy ambience extends to the rooms, too.
Artworks by former guests are pinned to a board in your room and on the desk is a blank sheet of A4 that beckons ‘draw on me’. There is more than a hint of Alice in Wonderland about the place, from the towering human-sized plants surrounding the pond and the croquet kit at the front door for guests’ use, to the flower-adorned plates at dinner. This is somewhere to disappear through the looking glass and find whatever it is you’re seeking, be that peace or simply time and space to create.
Creativity is certainly not in short supply in the kitchen, anyway.
I opted for the eight-course tasting menu in the elegant dining room, and was brought a series of delightfully considered plates – the likes of carrot with crispy leeks and wild garlic; crab with barley; sourdough and cultured butter; and beef with celeriac and moss – all sourced from either the garden or local producers, as indicated by an ingredients map on the back of the menu.
Would I like the wine pairing? Well, it would have been rude not to.
A selection of bruts, reds and whites took the dishes to a whole new level, with a Manzoni Bianco from the north of Italy stealing the show. All that wine might have had something to do with my slight headache the next morning, so there was nothing for it but to make my way to the outdoor sauna.
Tucked into a woodland clearing behind the pond, the enchanting pod contains a stylish sauna complete with mood lighting, wood-fired stove, towels, robes and drinking water. After half an hour sweating out my sins, I propelled myself into the outdoor shower for some of that good Scandi cold-water therapy. Wandering back to the house, my skin tingling and the morning sun warming my face, I completely understood the magic of Boath.
Ideas were coming to me, thoughts were flowing more easily. I felt I needed to tell everyone about what a special place this is. So here I am. As a certain wild-haired theoretical physicist once said: “Creativity is contagious – pass it on.”
Boath House
Auldearn
Nairn
IV12 5TE
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