The true spirit of Scotland shines in this legendary restaurant-with-rooms on the Isle of Skye

It’s fair to say the Three Chimneys has played a bigger role than most in dragging the notion of Scottish hospitality out of its stodgy past and into the flavour-first, produce-centred cooking of today. Ever since it opened in the mid-1980s, with Eddie and Shirley Spear at the helm, the restaurant has been a beacon of good food, enticing diners to the far north-west of Skye to sample its award-winning dishes, and gathering three AA rosettes, one Michelin star and a place in the Michelin Guide in the process.

The Spears may no longer be in the kitchen but the Three Chimneys has woven itself into the fabric of the Hebridean culinary scene and is today going from strength to strength, with a new head chef in Paul Green, refreshed accommodation at the adjacent six-bedroom House Over-By, and an intriguing collaboration with another Skye stalwart, Talisker, recently launched.

I have long wanted to sample its five-star menus for myself, so when I’m offered the chance to head to Loch Dunvegan, I can’t say no. It’s early evening by the time my partner and I arrive from Glasgow at the House Over-By. Sheila, the guest services coordinator, greets us with a warm smile and ushers us into our king-size suite. After a quick tour, she tells us that mulled wine and a slice of coffee-and-walnut cake will be waiting for us in the lounge when we’re ready.

The bedroom is elegant, understated and just big enough for two; a beautiful little nook with patio doors that boast a view of Loch Dunvegan. Homemade shortbread sits on the sideboard while mini bottles of Rock Rose Gin hide in the fridge. The ensuite is fitted with a rainfall shower, and Laura Thomas Co’s gorgeous hand soaps sit by the Burlington sink. Freshly pressed white dressing gowns are warming on the radiator. “Don’t leave without trying those on,” says Sheila. “Wearing them is like being inside a cloud.” We don the gowns as soon as we return that evening – and she’s right.

We migrate to the lounge where the promised cake and mulled wine (perfectly spiced) are waiting, and we sit and meditatively watch the loch turn black as the waning winter sun disappears behind the Duirinish peninsula. The Skye horizon has the desired effect: my mind is quiet, my body is settled – and I’m ready for dinner.

Paul Green joined the Skye restaurant as head chef last summer after 20 years of working in Michelin-star seafood restaurants across the globe. With him comes a team of enthusiastic young chefs, a contemporary outlook and a desire to continue the Three Chimneys’ focus on designing produce-led menus.

There’s a quiet stir of change in the air as a new era begins. Highlights from our eight-course meal include paprika-cured monkfish (tender, just hooked in Portree) with soused peppers (tangy and fresh), and marinated Dunvegan langoustines caught this evening and served within the hour. Wine pairings come from across the globe, selected by restaurant manager Abbie, who grew up on Vatten Croft on Skye, just along the road. Our dessert is an almond sponge with mulled quinces, served with cardamom ice-cream. On our second night, we sit at the chef’s kitchen table and watch with delight as the team cook and serve our eleven-course menu.

Memorable moments include Cumbrae oysters topped with a bubble of gin, tonic and cucumber; black garlic, onion and oregano rolls with Tain butter and Skye sea salt from Loch Snizort (we love it so much we take the recipe home); and Sconser scallops with a hazelnut crust and curry sauce (sweet, creamy and perfect for dipping), caught by father-and-son diving duo David and Ben Oakes who rear them in shallow water for up to five years. Our final dessert is a rice pudding soufflé with prunes and Armagnac. Not only is it the tallest soufflé I have ever seen, it is also the most delicious. Ten out of ten.

You’d think we couldn’t eat any more, but by the next morning, we’re tucking into a Three Chimneys Scottish breakfast. We sit by the patio doors for a final look at our loch view; the weather is grey, but the water shines.

On our way out, I re-read our welcome note: “We hope your stay is filled with tranquillity, joy and lasting memories.” It most certainly has been.

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