The team behind Cail Bruich have opened a seafood joint. Deputy Editor Natasha Radmehr dives into Shucks, Glasgow
It has been a while since I’ve had cause to dine in Hyndland. Once one of Glasgow’s buzziest ’hoods, its food scene has been overtaken in recent years by the likes of Finnieston and Shawlands, where new places seem to spring up every other week.
But when I hear the team behind Michelin-starred Cail Bruich have opened a seafood joint, Shucks, in the spot once occupied by Nick’s Neighbourhood Bar & Diner on Hyndland Road, I throw on my glad rags and jump in a taxi.
STYLE AND SUSTENANCE
My pal is waiting for me at the bar when I arrive, a big grin on her face as she sips a glass of cava. I’m struck by how different Shucks looks, and feels, compared to its predecessor.
Glasgow-based commercial interior designer Surface-id has introduced light and warmth to what was once a fairly moody space; think pale exposed-brick walls, light timber, gentle hints of green, and golden fish-scale tiles.
The vibe is effortlessly elegant, yet relaxed enough that nobody would bat an eyelid if an oyster dribbled down your chin.
Achieving that balance between casual and classy can be tricky, but Shucks manages quite comfortably.
Once we’re seated at a table upstairs, our eyes widen in delight as a friendly waitress wheels a champagne trolley over. What a treat!
We’re drawn, however, to the restaurant’s Negroni Sbagliato, a refreshing twist on the classic cocktail where sparkling wine takes the place of gin.
FOR SEAFOOD LOVERS
It accompanies a delectable spread of pre-dinner snacks: smoked Gordal olives, sourdough with wild-garlic butter, and tater tots dipped in salty herring caviar and Sardinian pecorino.
Head chef Shaun Haggerty, who previously held the same position at Cail Bruich, has curated an interesting menu where Asian-inspired flourishes – scallops with dashi; kingfish with fermented green tomato – elevate traditional dishes, but there’s also good ol’ fish and chips for the less adventurous.
We have Pacific oysters (sans dribbling), sea-trout tartare and wild Scottish halibut with smoked bacon and grilled lettuce.
The produce is sea-fresh and sourced from the Glasgow Fish Market, and there are daily specials too.
A handful of meat and veggie options will placate the pesci-averse, but this is really a restaurant for seafood lovers, as it should be.
And it has put Hyndland firmly back on the foodie map for me.
Thanks to Shucks for inviting us to sample the menu.
168 Hyndland Road
t. 0141 473 0080