Join us for a chilly, but revitalising weekend at this off-grid bolthole, which has a touch of luxe hotel living
Blanketed by heather and dotted with birch trees, the hillside is almost silent. The babble of a nearby river makes the only sound as golden hour falls on the Alpine sweetgrass. A herd of cows grazes quietly nearby as a thrush’s song floats on the autumn breeze. This is Straloch, a 3,000-acre family-run estate in Highland Perthshire on the fringes of the Cairngorms National Park. It’s a world away from the bright lights and sirens of the city, and a balm to my spirit. For the next two days, my partner and I are staying at River Cabin, a picture-perfect timber dwelling on the banks of the River Fernate in a secluded corner of the estate.

Owners Lucy and Will Holt worked with Casa Architect of Aberfeldy and Dunville Designs of Dunkeld to transform this once-crumbling fishing hut into an off-grid bolthole that boasts all the swagger of a boutique hotel. “We love the Scottish countryside, but we weren’t prepared to compromise on creature comforts,” says Lucy. “Our goal was to make River Cabin ooze luxury despite its wild location, so there’s a fitted kitchen and a cosy double bed with down pillows.”

“There’s even a flushing loo rather than the usual compost and wood shavings,” jokes Will.
The cabin is heated by a cast-iron stove, which fills the air with the comforting scent of woodsmoke. Board games and Penguin classics are stacked in the living room, whose big window gives enchanting views of the river. A TV would be sacrilege here.

The panelled walls are painted in a bold palette of teal and cherry, and there are high-end details: Art Deco-inspired tiles from Fired Earth, Pooky light fixtures, brass coat hooks by Corston. Warmth comes from sheepskin throws and soft tartan chairs from Homer in Aberfeldy. The alcove bed in the living room is a wonderful use of the limited space, cleverly zoned by thick woven curtains that, when drawn, create a pillowy den that we bundle into each evening with childlike excitement.
The cabin has no window coverings, so sun floods in from all angles. We’d feel a little exposed if we weren’t enveloped by dense woodland, 30 minutes from the nearest house. We sleep uninterrupted and wake with the sunrise each morning. Natural spring water flows from the brushed-brass rainfall shower in the bathroom, offering a spa-like experience that could give any five-star equivalent a run for its money.

Over the weekend, we explore our surroundings. Time seems to slow down here and there’s no sense of being rushed. We find a glittering waterfall and numerous wild swimming pools just minutes from our door, make pals with the local sheep, then sit for hours by the fire-pit and enjoy dinner alfresco on what Will calls the ‘Deep South’ patio. There are guided estate tours focusing on birdwatching, foraging, archaeology and fishing, or you can do as we do and pop into Pitlochry, a 20-minute drive away. There, we scoff pastries from Mackenzie’s Coffee House, and wander along the high street admiring the Victorian architecture, before returning to the cabin for our final night off-grid.

It’s 9pm and five degrees outside when we decide to take a soak in the hot tub. Licks of steam dance around our heads as we pour ourselves a glass of fizz. The night sky is cinematic: swooshes of purple and navy dance between a million stars. With no light pollution to spoil the view, we spot the constellations of Pegasus and Andromeda. We stay in the warm water for an hour, fingers turning pruney, raising our glasses again and again to toast one of the most special trips we’ve shared.
Straloch River Cabin is available to book on Kip Hideaways, a curated collection of soulful, design-led UK escapes.
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