Dazzling design flourishes and delicious seafood accompany smoky whisky at Ardbeg House
The flight to Islay seems specifically designed for Americans arriving to discover their Scottish heritage: a stewardess bedecked in tartan walks the aisle of the teeny propeller plane, handing out Tunnock’s Caramel Wafers. I can’t help smiling at the wonder on my fellow passengers’ faces as we swoop down to the craggy, misty island below in search of Ardbeg House.
Defying stereotype altogether, however, is Islay’s Ardbeg House. It belongs to Ardbeg Distillery, itself owned by Glenmorangie since the 1990s, which was recently acquired by LVMH. British design powerhouse Russell Sage was the natural choice to take on the interiors, having already excelled with Braemar’s Fife Arms and Fish Shop, as well as Glenmorangie House in Tain.
The past three years of development – “three years of bonkersness”, as Sage puts it – has produced a stay that’s out of this world. The unassuming white frontage hides a Narnia of disco balls, party lights and wild exuberance. An actual fishing boat hangs as a chandelier in the bar. It’s very dramatic, very theatrical, very Russell Sage.
Each of the 12 bedrooms draws inspiration from Islay lore. My home for the next three days is Fèis, inspired by traditions of music at the annual Fèis Ìle festival. Naturally, my headboard is a baby grand piano. The dresser, another piano. The ceiling light has been fashioned from a trio of gramophones, and traditional drums serve as tables on either side of the bed. In every room, there’s a trail of clues to find your two hidden Ardbeg miniatures, with some even tucked away in secret wall compartments.
It’s a bit bonkers, yes, but it’s hard not to be swept away with the fun of it all. It doesn’t take itself seriously. Sage is not taking the mick, though – he is truly passionate about the island. “I just love coming to Scotland,” he says. “I feel like the luckiest man in the world to be able to come here. I want to retire on Islay.”
He worked with 41 makers from across Islay and Scotland, who’ve contributed textiles, reworked paintings and objects to give the hotel a distinct island feel. One of the most impressive is a giant knitted tapestry that takes pride of place in the bar, a vibrant display of Islay’s landscape made by a collection of local crafters using a combination of textile techniques. Sage says he was keen to work with any local artist who approached him: “We didn’t want to turn anyone away. We’ve tried to implement everyone’s work where we could.”
Each room is made comfortable with sumptuous textiles from the likes of Timorous Beasties and Anta, along with toiletries from Edinburgh brand Moo & Yoo. Warming shades of copper are found on walls and ceilings, representing Ardbeg’s copper stills. The smoky, homely scent of the peat that’s used to create the brand’s iconic malts has been immortalised into diffusers and candles throughout the hotel, and the swirling patterns of the wallpaper and carpets embody said smokiness.
A vast majority of the objects have been repurposed from around the island, including the original Islay Bar signage that was created decades ago by the grandfather of one of Glenmorangie’s comms managers, Anna, an islander (or Ileach) herself. Local legend Shortie the dog, who was a well-known sight around the distillery, is omnipresent throughout the hotel, with fun little salt and pepper shakers, paintings and even silk eye masks boasting ‘Shortie Winks’ created in his image.
The restaurant goes to great lengths to celebrate the local food and drink too. Other than whisky, seafood is the island’s best culinary asset. Hand-dived scallops, collected daily by Gus, local skipper at Islay Sea Adventures, as well as Islay sea trout and lobster, are on the menu. There’s a focus on seasonality, with heritage tomatoes (picked from the chef ’s own garden) and allotment carrots available, too.
If you fancy a dram post-dinner, friendly Aussie head barman Jason comes around with a bike cart rattling with Ardbeg’s finest malts. The 25-year-old goes down smoothly, with notes of pepper, lemon sherbet and creamy toffee complementing that iconic peat smoke. Every evening at ‘Badger o’clock’ (that’s 18.15 to you and invited to partake in a pouring and tasting of drams of Ardbeg’s ‘Badger Juice’ (‘badger’ is an anagram of Ardbeg) in the Islay bar downstairs.
If you’ve had your fill of smoky malts, however, a comprehensive list of wines, beers and cocktails is to hand, where a pint or glass of wine will only set you back around £6. The affordability is intentional – locals are invited to enjoy the bar just as much as international whisky collectors. After three days of being whisked away by the wonder of Ardbeg, I’m enjoying a tasting menu with Russell Sage in the private dining room (complete with a massive octopus chandelier, naturally). He’s feeling emotional now that his work here is done.
I can understand his reluctance to say goodbye to such a cherished project – this place and its people have something very special on their hands. Rooms start at £230 per night
Ardbeg House
18 Charlotte St
Port Ellen
Isle of Islay
PA42 7DF
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