Dazzling scenery and unpretentious food revitalise the soul at this revamped hotel in Glen Lyon
Glen Lyon is alive with the whisper of falling snow. Flurries nip my cheeks before resting on the ancient woodland around me, turning the last of the autumn leaves white. I’m taking a meditative stroll along the banks of the River Lyon near Fortingall, a village about 15 minutes from Aberfeldy. Apart from a few brave robins and a flock of shivering sheep, I’m the only one here to witness the glen transform for winter. This spiritually charged pocket of Scotland has always drawn those seeking tranquillity.
St Adomnán of Iona dropped into Fortingall Abbey for a while, and some claim that Pontius Pilate was born here. The 5,000-year-old Fortingall Yew, believed to be the oldest living thing in Britain, still attracts tourists. But it’s the 19th-century Arts & Crafts hotel, designed by pioneering architect James MacLaren, that I’m here to see.
I bundle into The Fortingall foyer like a child high on fresh countryside air. A roaring fire crackles in the lounge to my left and the smell of woodsmoke tickles my nose as I stomp the snow off my boots. Last year, the hotel underwent a million-pound refurb at the hands of luxury interiors brand Anbôise, and what used to be a tartan-clad haunt for country-sports lovers is now a stylish retreat celebrated for its contemporary yet elegant design, great food and breathtaking location.
“The place was rather sad and neglected when we bought it, but the original architectural details were untouched and we could see it had enormous potential,” says Anbôise creative director Annabelle Holland. “Restoring the original stone arches, block cornicing and window shutters makes the interiors feel like they’ve developed over time.”
It’s fancy, but the revamped hotel isn’t afraid of a muddy boot or two. “We’re all about relaxed sophistication. We want guests to enjoy the 7,000-acre estate – walk up the glen, take a Land Rover tour, go fishing – and return for a peaceful afternoon tea or warm dinner. We specialise in simple things that revitalise the soul.”
The two-storey hotel is filled from top to bottom with Anbôise’s own furniture. In the lounge are fringed Art Deco sofas, ceramic lamps and woven cushions all designed in-house. The main restaurant and The Ewe bar are filled with one-off antique dining sets and vibrant tweeds from the likes of Guy Goodfellow and Namay Samay, all selected by Annabelle.
Cream woven carpets and Persian rugs brighten each space downstairs while contemporary pieces like cherry-red baths, smartly piped velvet headboards and terracotta tiling bring playfulness to the upstairs bedrooms. “We wanted the hotel to have a sense of place, without resorting to tartan carpets and taxidermy mounts in every room,” explains Annabelle. There are yoga mats in the wardrobes that she hopes will encourage guests to engage in wellness practices. “We ask you to pause, connect with the land and indulge in good food.”
I’m eating at The Ewe tonight, the hotel’s convivial micro-pub. The vibrant green nook is lit by candles and heated by a fire. Chefs David Gordon and Steve Lyall have written a sophisticated yet comforting menu inspired by Glen Lyon’s natural bounty, and I sit down to a hearty meal: fillet of seabass (perfectly crisp with a flaky middle) with confit fennel, spiced lentils and a lobster bisque (this is the highlight of the dish – tomatoey and rich, bursting with the flavours of the ocean). The pan-seared Glen Lyon venison melts on my tongue. It’s served with a dark-chocolate jus whose velvety bitterness levels the plate up from tasty to indulgent. Dessert is an explosive concoction of boozy, melt-in-the-mouth sweetness: spiced purple plums with a buttery oatcake crumble and generous scoop of Drambuie ice-cream.
By checkout the next morning, the glen is dressed in its usual mishmash of greens and browns and I’m disappointed to not be snowed in. Nevertheless, I set off for home feeling rejuvenated and very well fed. Ewan McGregor filmed his Local Lens documentary here last year and something he said rings true: “From the Cairngorms to the Hermitage and here, I think whoever made the world started with this part of Scotland – and they got it right.”
The Fortingall
Fortingall
Aberfeldy
PH15 2NQ
This stylish off-grid cabin has all the swagger of a boutique hotel
